Tag Archives: comfort food

pappardelle with rabbit ragu

pappardelle with rabbit ragu

::   Rabbit is one of my favourite meats to cook.  Because it’s so lean, it does need to be cooked on the bone and preferably in a slow oven to ensure it remains moist but it’s very versatile in the number of flavours it can be paired with.

As kids we ate rabbit from a fairly young age, even though we had pet rabbits roaming the garden throughout our childhood.  It’s a pity that a lot of people are put off eating it because of the cute bunny factor because it’s so lovely and lean with a subtle wild flavour.

1/4 cup olive oil
1.6kg rabbit, jointed
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 leek, white part sliced
400ml dry sherry
1 star anise
1 tsp each juniper berries, coriander seeds and whole black peppercorns
6 garlic cloves
2L good quality chicken stock
1/2 bunch of thyme
400g can borlotti beans, drained
1 cup chestnut flesh
500g fresh pappardelle
50g unsalted butter
Chopped flat-leaf parsely and grated fresh parmesan to serve

When purchasing rabbit, you can ask to have it jointed at the same time.  It’s easy enough to joint it yourself (just divide into the two hindlegs, saddle pieces, forelegs and neck) but it saves a bit of time asking your butcher to do it for you.

jointed rabbit

Preheat your oven to 100°C.  Heat two tablespoons of oil in a flameproof casserole over medium-high heat.  Cook rabbit for 5-6 minutes until golden and starting to brown.  Remove meat from pan and reduce heat to medium.

sherry, leek & borlotti beans

Add remaining oil and cook onion, carrot, leek and celery until golden.  Add sherry and simmer for 7-8 minutes or until reduced by half.  Add spices, garlic, stock and thyme and bring to the boil.

star anise

Cover and place in the preheated oven for one and a half to two hours until the meat is tender and separates easily from the bone.

rabbit ragu before cooking

Whilst rabbit is cooking, you’ll need to prepare the chestnuts.  Slice either a horizontal slash or a large cross along the flat side before boiling.

Place chestnuts in a small saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, and simmer for three minutes. Remove from the heat. Scoop out a few at a time and using a small knife, peel off the shell and inner skin.  This is a particularly tedious process and as they cool they become more difficult to peel, so keep them in hot water until you are ready.

fresh chestnuts

Once the rabbit is cooked and completely tender, remove from the stewing liquid.  Strain liquid and pour into a clean saucepan over medium-high heat.  Simmer rapidly for about 45 minutes or until reduced by half, then add butter and stir until melted and combined.

Pick meat from the the rabbit, shedding larger pieces, and add to the reduced cooking liquid with the beans and chestnuts.  Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes until slightly reduced and the ragu is just binding the meat.

Cook the pappardelle until al dente and then toss with the ragu sauce until all the pasta is coated.  Place in serving bowls and top with chopped parsley and parmesan.

pappardelle with rabbit ragu

pappardelle with rabbit ragu


baked gnocchi with gorgonzola cream, spinach & parmesan

baked gnocchi with gorgonzola cream, spinach & parmesan

::  There aren’t too many restaurants that I return to and order the same dish every time, as I’m incurably curious by nature and always looking to taste new things.

But one dish I will order time and time again is the baked gnocchi from C Restaurant in Perth.  The gnocchi are light as pillows, smothered in a decadent gorgonzola cream with roasted tomatoes and spinach.  Topped with parmesan, it’s then baked and brought straight to the table, bubbling and molten.  Try as I might, I’ve never been able to stray further on the menu.

I decided to try and replicate the dish at home.  Proper gnocchi are made from mashed potato, flour, egg and seasoning – nothing else.  The secret to making good gnocchi is to keep the potatoes as dry as possible, which means you need less flour to bring it all together and this give you a lighter end result.  Do not over-boil your gnocchi! I’ve had a disastrous moment when I got distracted and the little gnocchi absorbed too much water, turning to mush.

nadine potatoes

I use Jamie Oliver’s gnocchi recipe from his cookbook, Cook with Jamie.

6 medium floury potatoes (I used nadine)
2 tsp grated nutmeg
1 large egg yolk
1-2 handfuls plain flour
Sea salt and pepper
Semolina flour for dusting

Gorgonzola Cream
3 tbsp gorgonzola
3 tbsp butter
6 tbsp double cream
2 tsp tomato paste
Large handful of baby spinach
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan

Preheat the oven to 250°C.  Prick the potatoes all over with a fork and lay on a roasting tray.  Roast for a about an hour until the potatoes are crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside.  Allow to cool for a little bit and then, while they are still nice and hot, use a tea towel to pick up your potatoes one at a time, cut in half and scoop out the flesh into a mouli or ricer.

baked potatoes

When you have a lovey smooth mashed potato, place into a bowl with the nutmeg, salt, pepper and egg yolk.   Add enough of the flour to bind the mixture – you might need more or less flour depending on the size of your potatoes.  Mix together and knead with your hands until you have a slightly moist, doughy consistency.  To get the hang of perfect gnocchi dough requires practice but as Jamie says, if you’re unsure try testing one by chucking it into some boiling water – if it falls apart, add a bit more flour to the dough.

Once the dough is ready, divide into three pieces and roll each on a floured surface to the thickness of a sausage.  Cut each tube into 2.5cm pieces.  Place on a bed of semolina flour on a tray and place in the fridge for 10 – 20 minutes to set.

fresh homemade gnocchi

Put a pan of salted water on the boil and then heat a frypan over low heat.  Add the gorgonzola, butter and cream, stirring until the cheese has melted and you have an even consistency.  Stir in the tomato paste and add the spinach, gently agitating the pan until the spinach is wilted.

parmesan, gorgonzola, spinach & sea salt

Cook the gnocchi in the boiling water for four minutes, or until they float to the surface.  Drain carefully in a colander as they are very delicate and divide between your serving bowls. Pour over the sauce and top with grated parmesan.

fresh parmesan

Place bowls until a griller until the top is melted, browned and starting to crisp.  Serve immediately with a fresh green salad and some bread to mop up the creamy sauce.

baked gnocchi with gorgonzola cream, spinach & parmesan


lasagna with roasted vegetables & garlic bechamel

roasted vegetable lasagna

::  Winter is well and truly here.  This week the skies have barely cleared, remaining grey and dark from dawn until early dusk.  Time spent outside is kept as minimal as possible to avoid the chill wind & heavy downpours.  I’ve been yearning for hot soup and other hearty meals, so I set aside a big portion of the weekend to cook up a good store for the freezer.

Lasagna is a great comfort food but it’s often so heavy with the meat, cheese and creamy sauce.  In this version, the roasted vegetables are the heroes and even the bolognaise filling is bulked up with field mushrooms and spinach.  It does take quite a bit of preparation time to get this into the oven, but the result is completely worth it.

12 ready made lasagna sheets
1 cup grated cheddar cheese
2 large aubergines, sliced into 2.5cm disks
2 red capsicums
1/2 butternut pumpkin, seeds removed and cut into 2.5cm slices
4 large field mushrooms, sliced
1 onion, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
500g lean beef mince
2 x 400g tins chopped tomatoes
Couple of handfuls of baby spinach
1 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup tomato paste
1 tsp sugar
5 sprigs fresh thyme, leave removed
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped
Sea salt and pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

Garlic Bechamel Sauce
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
125g butter
3/4 cup plain flour
1 1/4 cups full cream milk
1/3 cup grated parmesan cheese

roasted capsicum

Preheat the oven to 220°C.  Place the capsicums in the oven for 30-40 minutes until blackened and charred.  Once they’re done, place in a plastic bag to cool and sweat.  Once cool enough to handle, remove the skin and seeds from each capsicum and tear into large pieces.

Place aubergine disks on an oiled baking tray, brush generously with olive oil and roast until browned.  Flip slices and roast for another 10 minutes.  Remove and set aside.

Roasted aubergine, capsicum & pumpkin

Repeat the process with the pumpkin slices, until the corners start to blacken and the flesh is completely soft.  Remove and set aside.

Field Mushrooms

For the bolognaise sauce, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat.  Fry onions until soft and golden.  Add mushrooms and garlic and fry until sweated down.  Add the mince and cook, stirring regularly until the meat is browned and the majority of the moisture has evaporated.  Finally, add the tinned tomatoes, balsamic, tomato paste and sugar.

Thyme

Season generously, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes until reduced.  Add the fresh herbs and spinach, stirring through until the spinach has wilted.

Bolognaise sauce with mushrooms & spinach

To make the bechamel sauce, melt butter in a saucepan over very low heat.  Add the garlic and cook for a minute, stirring constantly.  You don’t want the garlic or butter to brown but to gently infuse with flavour.  Add the flour, a quarter of a cup at a time, whisking to evenly combine the butter and flour until you have a crumbly consistency.  Now you need to add the milk, little by little, whisking constantly to maintain a smooth, even consistency.  Once evenly whisked, add the parmesan and continue whisking until the sauce is free of any lumps.

Garlic bechamel sauce

Reduce your oven heat to 160°C.  To assemble the lasagna, place four pasta sheets in the bottom of a large baking dish. Add half the bolognaise sauce and top with the roasted aubergine.  Layer another four pasta sheets over the top, add the remaining bolognaise and top with roasted pumpkin slices and capsicum pieces.  Place the final four pasta sheets on top, pour over the bechamel sauce in an even layer and sprinkle over the cheese.

lasagna with roasted vegetables & garlic bechamel sauce

Place in the oven for 45 minutes to an hour, until the top is melted and brown, and the pasta layers are cooked through.  Serve with a simple green salad and fresh basil. Belissimo!

lasagna with roasted vegetables & garlic bechamel sauce


ravishing ravioli

the essential tools

::  There’s nothing quite like homemade pasta.  And it’s not just the end results – be it silky, rich strands of pappardelle or little surprise-filled purses of tortellini – but the whole pasta making process which is a joy.  Ravioli tends to take the longest, as you need to fill and handcraft each one, but I find it relaxing and almost therapeutic to spend a lazy hour or two getting lost in its creation.

pasta medley

Jamie Oliver is a chef who is really passionate about homemade pasta and his books provide a great reference point when it comes to making, flavouring and cooking the huge number of varieties out there.  I still go by the dough recipe I first used from The Naked Chef, although it has taken me a while to get it just right!

The important thing about ravioli is getting the perfect thickness and making sure they are sealed completely.  You don’t want any water leaking in and diluting your filing or worse, your ravioli bursting in the boiling water midway through cooking.

fresh ravioli

These ravioli are filled with a mixture of torn bocconcini, sundried tomatoes, basil and lemon zest wrapped in thinly sliced proscuitto.  It’s important to match the right sauce with your creation, as the flavours in the filing are the heroes of the dish and you don’t want to overpower them.  For these, I made a subtle Napolitana sauce and topped with a little grated parmesan and basil, it makes for a classic combination.

ravioli of proscuitto, bocconcini, sundried tomatoes & basil


roast garlic & parsnip soup with sage burnt butter

parsnips

::  It was one of those beautiful May days – bright and sunny but still cool enough for scarves and boots.  I took a trip to the Mt Claremont farmers market early in the morning to pick up some fresh produce, including the ingredients for the weekend’s cooking ventures.

My mum was unwell and as she always comes over with supplies for me when I’m at home sick, I decided to make a batch of soup and take her over some for dinner.  This recipe from a back issue of Gourmet Traveller had been earmarked for quite some time so it seemed the perfect occasion to try it out.

As well as being wonderfully simple, it filled the kitchen with that fragrant, unmistakable aroma of roasting garlic and had my mouth watering by the time I finished.  The smooth, creamy parsnip balances  out the caramalised garlic perfectly, resulting in a delicate play of flavours.

3 heads of garlic
60ml olive oil
20g butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1.5L chicken stock
1 kg parsnips, coarsely chopped
60ml pouring cream

Sage Burnt Butter
80g cold butter, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup loosely packed sage leaves

Preheat an over to 180°C.  Place garlic on a large sheet of foil, drizzle with a glug of olive oil and wrap to enclose.  Place on an oven tray and roast until very tender (about 30-40 minutes).  Set aside to cool.  When cool enough to handle, squeeze the garlic flesh out of the skins and set aside.

Meanwhile, heat butter and remaining oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, add onion and stir occasionally until tender.  Add stock and parsnips, bring to the boil, cover and simmer until parsnips are very tender (about 45 minutes to an hour).  Add garlic and puree with a hand-held blender until smooth, then add cream and season to taste with salt and pepper.  Set aside and keep warm.

Meanwhile for burnt butter, heat butter in a frying pan over medium heat until foaming.  Add sage and fry until crisp (1-2 minutes), quickly transferring to a plate lined with some absorbent paper once done.  Carefully cook butter until just starting to brown and smell nutty, then remove from heat.

Serve soup hot, drizzled with burnt butter and scattered with sage leaves.

roast garlic & parsnip soup with sage burnt butter


sausage & mushroom ragu with parmesan polenta

mushroom medley

::  I was having friends over for dinner and with the weather turning cool and rainy, indulgent comfort food was in order.  After thumbing through my cookbooks and magazines I decided on this relatively simple but flavoursome ragu, from the May 2012 issue of delicious.

Polenta is something I quite enjoy but had never tried my hand at – and in fact this recipe far surpasses many blander versions I’ve eaten.  The original recipe also calls for for Swiss brown mushrooms only, but I’m a huge fan of mixing the textures and flavours of different varieties, and this combination worked wonderfully here.

We drank a lovely drop of Coonawarra Estate 2009 cabernet sauvignon, a rich, fruity red which at first I found a little over-sweet but which soon mellowed into a smooth, almost creamy finish. The bottle disappeared before we knew it.

20g dried porcini mushrooms
800g sausages, casings removed, broken into pieces
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves
2 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed
1/2 tsp chilli flakes
150ml dry white wine
3 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes
3 fresh bay leaves
450g mixed mushrooms (enoki, oyster, portobello etc.)
Chopped flat-leaf parsley, to serve

Parmesan Polenta
1.5L chicken stock
1 1/2 cups instant polenta
2 cups finely grated parmesan

Soak porcini in one cup boiling water for 30 minutes.  Meanwhile, heat one tablespoon of oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.  Cook the sausage meat in two batches, stirring occasionally, until golden brown.  Remove from pan and set aside.

Reduce heat to medium-low and add one tablespoon of oil to the saucepan.  Add the onion, cover and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for ten minutes or until soft and lightly golden.

Drain the porcini, squeezing out as much liquid as possible.  Add the porcini to the saucepan with the garlic, fennel seeds and chilli, then cook, stirring for 1-2 minutes.  Add the wine and simmer for 2-3 minutes until almost evaporated.  Return sausage meat to the pan with the tomatoes and bay leaves.  Simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until ragu is reduced and thickened.

Place remaining oil in a large frypan over high heat.  Add mushrooms, season, then cook for about 3 minutes or until golden and starting to brown.  Stir mushrooms into the ragu, cover, then simmer for a further 5 minutes.  Season to taste.

Meanwile, place stock in a large saucepan and bring to the boil.  Reduce heat to low, then pour in the polenta in a slow, steady stream, stirring constantly.  Cook, stirring for 5 minutes until thick and stir in the parmesan.  Taste and season accordingly.

Spoon the polenta into bowls, top with ragu and chopped parsley.

sausage & mushroom ragu with parmesan polenta


leek & potato gratin

leek & potato gratin

::  This rich and decadent gratin was the perfect accompaniment to the roast beef fillet.

5 tbsp unsalted butter
2 x leeks, white and light green portions, rinsed well, cut into2cm rings
1 1/2 tbsp sea salt
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
1/4 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 tsp freshly ground pepper
1 cup double cream
185g gruyère cheese, grated
60g parmigiano-reggiano cheese, grated
1.5kg russet potatoes, peeled, cut into 2cm slices

In a large nonstick fry pan over medium heat, melt four tablespoons of the butter.  Add the leeks and salt, stirring to coat the leeks with the butter.  Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are tender (about 20 minutes).  Add the thyme, nutmeg, pepper and cream and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened (about 15 minutes).  Transfer to a bowl to cool.

Preheat an oven to 180ºC.

In a bowl, combine the gruyère and parmigiano-reggiano cheeses.  Layer one-third of the potatoes in a greased casserole dish and spread one-third of the leek mixture on top.  Sprinkle with one-third of the cheeses.  Repeat the layering twice more.

Place in the oven, covered in aluminium foil and bake for 45 minutes.  Remove the foil and continue baking until the potatoes are tender and the crust is golden brown.  Let the gratin stand for 15 minutes before serving.


rainy nights

spelt penne with crispy proscuitto, mushrooms & goats cheese

::  Friday night saw me driving down to Narrogin, a small country town about 200km south-east of Perth, to stay the weekend with close family friends.  It had rained the whole day and continued to pour as night fell on the country roads, so I was immensely glad to arrive safe and sound on their doorstep.  Welcomed into their large but bountifully cosy house, we were soon supplied with wine and warming food.  Helen is one of the best cooks I know, constantly sharing notes, recipes, restaurant and travel destinations, and that night she had whipped up a dish of spelt penne with crispy procuitto, mushrooms and goats cheese.

miles from nowhere 2009 cabernet merlot

We drank a lovely drop of Margaret River cabernet merlot with bright flavours of mulberry, sweet vanilla and oak.  It was very easy  drinking – warming soft and silky mouthful, with a lingering finish.


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